Restaurant Wana Yook

A charming colonial-era mansion hidden behind the Five Fifteen Victory hotel, serving Thai khao gaeng — rice with curry — in its many regional forms. Here, massaman curry is deconstructed, while martabak, the Arab flatbread popular among Thailand’s Muslim communities, is transformed into a translucent shell. The menu is overseen by Chalee Kader, a Thai chef of Indian descent whose artistic sensibility allows him to compose near-Dutch still lifes from dismantled ingredients — chicken skin, pomelo pulp, wafer-thin slices of green mango and mysterious petals.